St Peter’s Street

Immediately within the shadow of St Peter Mancroft’s tower stood No 31 St Peter’s Street, formerly the White Swan. Records show it to have been an inn as far back as the fifteenth century, and although during the twentieth century it was occupied by a firm of wholesale grocers and latterly by motorcycle factors, many of the structural features of the earlier period remained, including the bar parlour, the cellars and a large assembly room. It was in this room that plays were enacted by the Norwich Company of Comedians before Thomas Ivory built his New Theatre in 1757-8, and as late as 1820 a “ballet of action and dance” and a masquerade were being advertised as taking place at the “Little Theatre, Swan inn”. In addition to this it was, during the eighteenth century, one of the city’s well-known coaching inns; the journey to London was made in one day.

In 1936 when the future of the old inn was first threatened, Sidney Glendenning wrote to the Press as follows:

The old White Swan is a more interesting building than the casual observer realises. It is a very substantial oak timber-framed building, probably of about the same date as the Strangers’ Club on Elm Hill... the frontage, which is supposed to look like a brick wall, is simply a covering of hanging tiles, shaped to look like bricks, concealing the brown oak framework and plaster filling of the Tudor house. This was due to a fashion for modernising in late Georgian times. Underneath is one of the best groined cellars in Norwich, belonging to an earlier building on this site and dating from the fifteenth century or thereabouts...

It was not until 1961 that the site was finally cleared and a car park established in front of the Central Public Library. One feature considered worthy of preservation was a quaint little wooden figure forming a supporting bracket at one end of the first floor jetty. This is now an exhibit in the Bridewell museum, Norwich.

Mancroft Yard (left), which lay behind the neighbouring Free Trade Tavern (below), was pulled down at the beginning of the Second World War. It had been described by Ian Hannah as “a good example of fine old 15th century buildings converted into squalid tenements”. There were in fact two yards here, one behind the other, with the gabled timber-framed building illustrated lying between the two. At the street entrance (but now preserved in one of the Norwich museums) was a small wooden arch bearing the grocers’ arms and a merchant’s mark in one spandrel and the initials “M.B.” in the other. These could be the initials of Margaret Barnard, who lived here in 1626, or those of Michael Beverley, Mayor in 1692, to whom the property later belonged. He was a grocer, but the character of the archway seems earlier than the latter part of the seventeenth century. On the other hand in 1626 it was certainly unusual, if not unknown, for women to use such a mark and arms.

Undoubtedly the biggest development affecting the heart of the city during the 1930s was the construction of the City Hall and the consequent remodelling of the market place. For many years Norwich Corporation had been acquiring property in an area bounded by Bethel Street, St Peter’s and St Giles’ Streets with this in mind, and early in 1933 demolition commenced to permit the construction of the Fire Station - the most urgently needed of the civic buildings.

The houses affected were Nos 20-36 Bethel Street, together with Blazeby’s Yard and Jay’s Court at the rear. Most of the houses fronting the street were of the Tudor period, timber framed, plaster faced, with slightly jettied first floor and with one or more dormers lighting the attic. Except that No 36, next door to Lacey and Lincoln’s builders’ yard, had been a public house known as the Coachmakers’ Arms, their history seems to have been uneventful. All were in a very rundown condition at the time of their disappearance.

The new Fire Station was opened on 8th November 1934, by the Lord Mayor, Mr F. C. Jex, and with little waste of time, work commenced in the following year on clearing the remainder of the site for the new City Hall. On the Bethel Street side this involved Nos 2-18 inclusive. Their sites would now be in the middle of the present carriageway, since the street formerly tapered to a single traffic lane at this end.

The first few houses were nondescript nineteenth-century three-storeyed buildings of red brick, No 2 being the Mancroft Restaurant. At No 14 was latterly the Idolene Manufacturing Company, occupying premises formerly the Wheatsheaf inn and retaining its sign above the door, moulded in plaster. It has been suggested that this was intended for a sheaf of barley, for the old Barley Market dating back to the reign of Edward I was formerly held in an adjacent yard. One of the chief attractions here was the skittle alley, but the inn also afforded stabling on the opposite side of the road for the accommodation of carriers. These stables in fact outlasted the inn, surviving until 1960 as lock-up shops, including those of a tobacconist and a secondhand furniture dealer. The inn itself was a Tudor building of several gables, and it was reported at the time of its demolition that certain of its oak beams were to be preserved at one of the city’s museums. There is no record that this was ever done.

No 18 Bethel Street was a large building of three storeys, its exterior wall cement rendered and partly panelled. The doorway that formed its main entrance, now transferred to the inner courtyard of the Strangers’ Hall museum, is a lofty one of the Adam period, with fluted pillars supporting an open pediment below which, in place of a fanlight, is a plain semi-circular tympanum. The building had been used for a variety of purposes, having been divided up during its latter years. In 1883 it was occupied by F. W. Harmer’s clothing factory, but it was later taken over be E. Pordage’s, the wholesale fruiterers. Portions were also occupied by a billiard saloon and a signwriter’s studio. In the past it had also been used as a school for higher education and by Forster’s mineral water works - a well was said to have existed on or adjacent to the premises. Indeed when excavation took place a number of wells were uncovered scattered over the whole area.

In St Peter’s Street at Nos 15-17 was a half-timbered building worthy of note. At one time a public house, its sign was changed during the Great War in a burst of patriotism from the Wounded Hart to the Kitchener’s Arms. White’s Norfolk Directory of 1836, however, shows it was then the Wounded Heart, with an “e”. A portion of the staircase with its balustrade as well as a fireplace surround was earmarked for preservation when the property was demolished. Another half-timbered house stood just behind in Wounded Hart Lane, its site now covered by the City Hall steps.

Further along, No 7 was once the Beehive public house. This was a late Georgian building that retained to the last a shop front of that period. Adjoining was Pope’s Head Yard with the inn of that name, described by Walter Wicks as one of the oldest in Norwich, since the sign no doubt pre-dated the Reformation.

Round the corner in St Giles’ Street perhaps the saddest loss was occasioned by the demolition of No 12, a fine early Georgian mansion seen only on entering Low’s Yard - a yard which derived its name from the occupant of the mansion over many years, Frederick Low, a veterinary surgeon. During the 1920s the Norwich Education Committee also had its offices here. Now the City Hall tower stands near the site, but the central doorway of No 12 was saved and may now be seen, shorn of its side windows, in the courtyard of the Bridewell museum.

Returning to the Market Place, few people regretted the passing of the old Municipal Buildings, least of all those that worked there. Standing on the west side of the square, the offices were housed in a block largely made up of late nineteenth-century public houses and hotel buildings. The little corner at the south end, however, was much older. These were once the Black Prince and the Waterloo taverns - the former with its gabled roof, and the latter with its balcony and wide bay windows, of which full use was made, no doubt, in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when electioneering produced such lively scenes. Together these buildings paired admirably in both age and appearance with the nearby Sir Garnet Wolseley.

Text and photographs Copyright © G.A.F.Plunkett 2001

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